Thursday 11 October 2012

Reflexions on life and death



The mother sat stone still. She didn’t say a word. She didn’t shed a tear. The other women around her made small chitchat. I believe they were just there to keep her company and to distract her from her grieving. In watching a funeral here, an outsider might think that people become numb to the pain; that there is so much death and loss here, particularly of children, that people don’t take it as hard because they are used to it. I don’t think that is true. I think that people all grieve the same even if outwardly they don’t always show it.
Les funérailles chrétiennes, quoique similaires à la surface à celles des musulmans, ont une importante différence, la famille du décédé sert du « vin » local à tous les visiteurs.  C’est-à-dire qu’il y a plus de vielles matantes et vieux mononcles soules qui racontent je ne sais quoi dans leur patois. Moi, je n’ai jamais su ce qu’on devrait dire à quelqu’un qui vient de perdre un proche, alors je me tais. C’est facile à faire puisque les gens supposent que je ne connais pas la langue de toute façon, mais les funérailles ici sont une affaire très sociale ou tous les membres d’une famille se réunissent après de longs moments. Souvent ils se déplacent de très loin, des villages à plusieurs kilomètres (loin, surtout pour ceux qui viennent à pied). Pour certains, surtout les femmes, les funérailles et les mariages sont les seuls occasions qu’elles ont pour sortir de la maison et socialiser. Les funérailles durent trois jours avec les visiteurs qui vont et viennent et d’autres qui restent. Tout le monde est assis dehors, les femmes d’un côté, les hommes de l’autres. Les femmes servent le vin.
I’ve assisted two funerals in the three days. One for my 3 year old neighbour who passed away suddenly after falling sick a couple days ago and one for my friend’s cousin who swallowed poison after getting in a fight with his brother (In the past three years, the uncle has lost three children, this one being the third). The real tragedy in both of these deaths is that had they had access to proper medical facilities, it is likely that both deaths could have been prevented. In the boy’s case, if the sickness had been detected, properly diagnosed and treated on time, he may have recovered (my understanding is he died of malaria).  As for the cousin, he was taken to the hospital, but there were no doctors present (as far as I know, there are never any doctors there, if you have an emergency you’re out of luck). Some attendants did what they could (who knows what kind of training they have) but he died shortly after. Afterward, the family asked the ambulance driver if he could help transport the body, only to be told that he didn’t even have the keys! The ambulance was given about a month ago as a vote-winning gift to the hospital but what use is an ambulance if the driver doesn’t have the keys?
Il est souvent dit que l’hôpital de Bogo est un lieu ou les gens vont pour mourir, pas pour guérir. Ici, ce ne sont pas les malades qui vont à l’hôpital, mais les morts. Ce sont des blagues sinistres, mais qui cachent une vérité tragique. Le développement ne se mesure pas selon le GNP d’un pays, sa richesse économique ou son taux d’emplois.  Je crois que le vrai développement signifie l’accès médical et la santé pour tous. Si on veut avoir une vraie idée du niveau de développement dans un pays ont devrait se demander : Combien d’enfants moins de cinq meurent à toutes les années? Combien de personnes meurent de maladies comme la malaria et le choléra qui pourraient être prévenues avec une bonne  éducation,  de l’accès à l’eau potable, des latrines sanitaires et  des traitements accessibles? Si la réponse est ???????????????????????????? c’est sous-développé.

I have been very privileged in that I haven’t suffered much loss in my lifetime. Death hasn’t been very active or present in my life- something for which I am grateful, but am also made more aware of now that I am surrounded by people for whom death is a frequent visitor. If you talk to anyone here, they will tell you they have lost a child, a sister, a father, a cousin, an aunt and probably more than one. Granted people here have large extended families and many people don’t differentiate between cousins and brothers (they don’t have a word for cousins but refer to them as their brothers and sisters born to their uncle or aunt). Going to a funeral is probably the number one excuse people have for not showing up at a meeting (followed closely behind by going to a wedding). But the fact that it happens more often here doesn’t make it easier to bear, though they do seem to know how to cope. I’ve been to several funerals since my arrival here and have only witnessed one person crying, but I don’t think that it hurts any less. Maybe, they’re just better at hiding it, either that or I’m not looking in the right place.